I ended my last post by mentioning the freezing fog that had descended as we left Sofia. I’ll admit that this leg of our journey was the one I felt the most nervous about driving-wise. It’s one thing to contend with different driving styles around the world, and I’m fairly confident in my ability to adjust after a short space of time to whatever that style may be. It’s entirely another, as a Brit, to drive in sub-zero snowy conditions. It’s just not something we have to do a lot of in the UK. Even a dusting of snow and the entire country shuts down, people start stockpiling baked beans and the roads feel almost apocalyptic in their emptiness.
I needn’t have worried though — like most countries that experience proper winters, Bulgaria is more than equipped. The roads were clear, salted, and calm. With a little caution and a lot of white-knuckled gripping of the steering wheel, we made the 2–3 hour journey from Sofia to Bansko without drama.
We were due to attend our first ‘worldschool hub’. Which, put simply, is an organised coming together of travelling families from all over the world. Sometimes these are simple and informal pop-ups of a few days or weeks. Or, like this one, they can be meticulously organised programmes lasting longer and attended by larger groups. This one was through a company called Arctic Terns and would be 6 weeks long, with around 70 adults and children all living within the same hotel complex.
I’m sure we weren’t alone in the feeling of trepidation on arrival. We had been travelling as a family for almost three months by this point and we’d kind of gotten used to that rhythm — just us four. To then go into a veritable social soup of 70+ strangers would be quite a change to the status quo. However, we entered into it with no expectations or presumptions other than open minds.
By now, Nikki and I were acutely aware that the children were craving time with other kids and, as all kids do, needed some time away from us to further their independence and personal growth. Our particular family make-up is an interesting — and probably not an unfamiliar — one. We have one child (Senara) who is extremely gregarious and outgoing, a social firecracker. You know, the kind that engages strangers in conversation in supermarkets and isn’t deterred by said person not understanding any English at all. I’m sure she’d try and strike up a conversation with a wild Goat if it stopped long enough to listen! She’ll sing, dance, or run around naked without any filter or insecurity. She can be wild, but is also fiercely passionate and empathic toward others and makes friends wonderfully easily.
On the other hand, we have Roscoe, our eldest, who is happiest when quietly reading a book by himself or playing games with one or two close pals. He can admittedly take a while to feel comfortable in social situations, but when he does, you’re rewarded with a sharp mind, a wealth of knowledge and a genuinely funny character who doesn’t take himself too seriously.
First Impressions
Our apartment was part of the wider hotel complex — warm, simple, and with a stunning view of the Mountains. The kids were thrilled to discover a heated pool (bonus!), and we were equally thrilled to discover that we didn’t need to chisel our shower taps open each morning.
The town of Bansko is an intriguing mix: a bustling ski resort colliding with small-town Bulgaria. One moment you’re eating bubble waffles in a street side cafe, the next you’re buying unknown vegetables from a traditional market. It worked.
The Arctic Terns team were amazing from the start. The schedule had a structure — classes, excursions, adult sessions — but also enough flex to find your own rhythm. Our first night was a traditional Bulgarian welcome dinner in town. Think folk music, hearty food, and more than a few jet-lagged parents trying to keep their eyes open past 8pm.
Weeks 1–6 Highlights
I’ve done a brief weekly breakdown and some just general ones of the chaos, joy, and memory-making. There is so much to include, I’m bound to have missed something out.
Week One: The week began with team bonding games that helped everyone, kids and adults alike, ease into the new dynamic. One evening we visited a thermal hot springs spa — a surreal and soothing experience, soaking in warm water under a starry sky with snow all around, spending as much time as you can in the ‘super hot’ section and then jumping out to cool off with fresh snow. We also went ice skating, which was a fun mix of laughter and bruises… I should add, I DO NOT ice skate, I have tried many times but I just can’t do it, it just feels completely alien to me. The kids really started to get the hang of it by the end though it was lovely to see all the older kids helping out the younger ones. We also spent a heartwarming afternoon volunteering with Bansko Street Dogs, helping out with walks and getting to know the local rescue efforts. This would become a real highlight for us, more on that later.
Week Two: Igloo building and horse riding! Nothing like stacking snow blocks with numb fingers to really bring people together.
Week Three: A chaotic, hilarious casino night for the adults, complete with ridiculous high stakes betting. A morning spent sledging and an afternoon at a ropes park that was equal parts thrilling and terrifying.
Week Four: A big, open-air bonfire night with marshmallows, music, and that deep, wholesome joy that comes from sitting around a fire with friends.
Week Five: ATV tour! Because nothing says bonding like zooming through the snow on a quad bike.
Week Six: A day trip to Rila Monastery, a beautiful historic monastery at deep in the mountains. One evening we had a potluck dinner which was truly a medly of foods from around the world. I made a huge cottage pie, which went down pretty well… Oh the culinary exoticness that is British cuisine.
Regular Rhythms
Hot springs: Every week, we visited a different spa. They all had their own vibe, but the common thread was hot water, snow, and pure bliss.
Bansko Street Dogs: A weekly favourite. The kids formed real connections with the dogs and were genuinely excited to help out each week. We re-visited several times during our spare time and met a rotating cast of impossibly cute puppies. It’s not a great situation — there are a lot of uncared-for dogs — but Sarah and her team do amazing, tireless work. Their commitment and compassion left a real impression on us.
Roscoe even took part in a sponsored run to raise money for the shelter — and managed an astonishing 7km. All the children ran really hard and raised alot of money for the dogs, but in a super proud parent moment Roscoe managed to be the only child that didn’t stop running for the whole hour. I think we really may have found his athletic calling in long-distance running! He raised so much money that he was allowed to sponsor a dog, which he called… Roscoe.
Swimming sessions with friends: The kids practically lived in the hotel pool. So much so that it made perfect sense to hold a ‘Pool Party’ there for Senaras 5th birthday.
Dungeons & Dragons: Roscoe loved his weekly D&D group. I even managed to get in on an adult campaign which was a great way to reconnect with something I haven’t done for too many years. Roscoe has also started doing an online D&D with some pals met during the hub.
Games Nights: Catan. I am amazing at Catan. I feel that needs to be documented officially.
Though I should add, for balance, that I am absolutely terrible at ‘Taco, Cat, Goat, Cheese, Pizza’, a thoroughly brilliant… if ridiculous game
Themed Kids’ Activities: From spy missions to full-on pretend airports, the kids had endless opportunities for play and imagination. A special shout has to go here for the amazing facilitators. Many of them didn’t have ‘formal’ experience of teaching kids but each and every one of them was amazing in their own way. They made the whole hub so special for the kids, they went above and beyond and were a pleasure to deal with.
‘Kid free time’ you say… What is that?
One of the unexpected joys of the hub was the space for adult connection. From snow hikes to wine-fuelled chats around the fire, we met people who felt instantly familiar. These weren’t just other parents — they became a kind of temporary extended family. And while the kids were off at classes, me and Nikki had our own adventures — hikes, swimming, coffee dates, sauna sessions, and a much-needed chance to reconnect with each other and ourselves.
We also had time for some family hikes and adventures. Including some half frozen waterfalls!
Trying New Things
We tried skiing. We really did. As a family, we gave it a proper go… and then gave it a proper miss. It just wasn’t for us. The faff of the gear, the transit up the mountain, the cold, the chaos — the kids lasted a few days before declaring the pool far superior. Honestly? Same. The clothes, the shoes, the logistics. We were all were far happier splashing about in warm water.
A Weekend in Plovdiv
Halfway through the hub, we took a long weekend trip to Plovdiv as an addition to the hub. Plovdiv is Bulgaria’s oldest city and one of Europe’s hidden gems. It was a total change of scene from snow-covered Bansko: Roman ruins, cobbled old town streets, history and culture everywhere… and surprisingly mild weather.
We took a 6hr train journey, almost entirely single track, across Bulgaria to get to Plovdiv. Our party was maybe 5 or 6 families from the hub and it was a great little mid-hub adventure.
We went on one of the many guided tours of the city, what’s great is these are completely free other than a tipping what you feel at the end. Our guide was really knowledgable and even strategically placed a few stops where the kids could run around and play while the adults got to grips with some of Plovdivs rich history. We explored the ancient Roman amphitheatre, part of which is located in the basement of a H&M… I kid you not, the clothes shop! We enjoyed the city parks, alleyways of quirky galleries, cafés, and numerous street performers.
It was one of those rare moments in long-term travel where you slip into “tourist mode” for a while, which made returning to the hub feel like coming back home. The contrast only deepened our appreciation for both experiences.
Final Thoughts
This hub taught us that travel isn’t just about places — it’s about people, community and sharing ideas… with a little added chaos.
We absolutely loved our time in Bansko. The kids blossomed, we made real connections, and there was something deeply grounding about having a temporary home base — a rhythm — even amidst all the adventure. We’re so grateful to the incredible team at Arctic Terns for holding the space so beautifully. The care, thought, and humour they poured into every part of the hub didn’t go unnoticed, and we felt so supported and welcomed the whole way through.
And while we could’ve happily stayed longer (there were still hot springs to soak in and at least one more games night to dominate), we also felt that familiar tug — the one that says, “this chapter’s done.” After six weeks of snow, saunas, and street dogs, we were ready for a shift in scenery.
Would we do another Arctic Terns hub? Absolutely. In fact, we’re already keeping an eye on where they’ll be next.
We left with full hearts, closer friendships, and that bittersweet feeling that something rare and beautiful had just ended.
What’s Next
From the snowy peaks of Bulgaria, we sold off all our ski gear and thermals, said our goodbyes, and shifted gears — and continents. Next stop: Mexico!
It would be the kids’ first ever long-haul flight, routed via Gatwick and full of that slightly delirious, stressy excitement that only travel over several days can bring. But the reward? Sunshine. Street tacos. Cenotes. Colour. A whole new rhythm.
After six weeks of mountains, we were more than ready to trade snow for warmth and sun. While we didn’t quite know what to expect, we had a hunch it was going to be something special.
But that’s a story for the next post…
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