I Left My Heart in Ek Balam

Also left with a few mosquito bites…

¡Hola México! First Impressions from Cancún to the Jungle

We boarded our first long-haul flight with excitement… and a fair bit of anxiety. It felt like a bold move—crossing the Atlantic with two kids, wondering how long it would take before someone melted down over the lack of snacks or the injustice of shared armrests.

In the end? Classic case of worrying for nothing. As is the modern way, a screen apiece and a trove of in-flight films and games kept them blissfully occupied. That, and the strange allure of plane food (seriously, why is it weirdly exciting when it’s in a tray?).

We decided to ease into Mexico with a week in Cancún before diving into anything too intense.


Cancún (sort of)

We weren’t staying in the main Hotel Zone (thankfully), but Cancún still felt a bit too much—touristy, busy, and someone trying to sell you something at every turn. Not really our vibe. That said, our apartment was tucked inside a quiet complex with pools and a lovely stretch of beach that gave us some much-needed downtime.


A Day on Isla Mujeres

Our standout day of the week, by far, was the trip to Isla Mujeres. A short ferry ride whisked us across the turquoise water, and from there we did what any sensible visitor does: hired a golf buggy.

We zoomed (okay, pottered) straight to the far end of the island and stumbled across a little shack that served up ice-cold drinks and the best fish tacos we’ve ever tasted. That meal cost us next to nothing—and that’s been a lovely surprise throughout our time in Mexico. Food, drink, taxis… everything feels refreshingly affordable compared to the UK.

Also: massive iguanas. Everywhere. They were definitely a theme in Mexico and the kids always enjoyed seeing them and gauging whether the latest one was in fact the biggest of the lot so far. Big lizards are cool!


First Mayan site: El Meco

Before leaving Cancún, we made our first foray into the world of the ancient Maya at El Meco. It’s a smaller site, but just a short walk from our apartment and beautifully peaceful. The kids clambered around the structures while we imagined the lives that once bustled here. A perfect bite-sized intro to Mexico’s rich history.


Into the Jungle: Ek Balam and the Anahata Worldschool Hub

After our restful week, we headed inland to the village of Ek Balam—home to around 80 Mayan families and our next worldschool hub. Ek Balam has a few different translations into English mainly ‘Black-Jaguar’ but it is also sometimes translated as ‘Jaguar-star’.

This place couldn’t have felt more different from snowy Bulgaria. It was hot. Jungle hot. One morning, it hit 42°C by 10am. Our cabana was basic but beautiful, nestled right in the jungle. We fell asleep to a chorus of frogs and crickets and woke to the noisy calls of parrots echoing through the trees. And yes—there were bugs, luckily the only one that needed careful removal was a Scorpion!

The walk to the village school each day was a joy: dusty paths, friendly faces, and jungle all around.


School, Jungle-Style

The local school—tiny, entirely Spanish-speaking—welcomed the kids warmly. There were only about 20 pupils, all local Mayan children, and the sense of community was immediate. Thankfully, a few translators helped us find our footing, and our Spanish improved quickly (necessity is an excellent teacher).

What really stood out was the Agile learning method. Every morning, the children helped shape the day’s plan, and nothing was forced. Groups naturally formed around shared interests—art, sport, crafts—and everyone dove in willingly.

Some highlights of the school were:

  • Art sessions galore: T-shirt making, drawing, painting
  • Crafts like God’s Eye weaving and traditional hammock-making (Nikki’s favourite)
  • Sports in the next door baseball field (or the covered basketball court if it was too hot): football, hockey, basketball, and some brilliant Mexican spins on playground classics like tag… We of course shared ‘Stuck in the Mud’, appropriate seen as how scarce mud is in Ek Balam!
  • Language lessons: We had the privilege of being taught the local Mayan language including Hieroglyphics.
  • Traditional food – Each day our lunches were lovingly prepared by some of the local women. We tried all sorts of traditional Mexican and Mayan foods and they were all incredible… Just make sure you know which sauce is the hot one before tucking in!

We learned as much as the kids did—about community, about culture, and about ourselves. In just two weeks, it felt like we’d lived a small lifetime.


The People Who Made It

Another highlight of our time in Ek Balam was the teachers. Gilmer, the regular village schoolmaster, and Gainko, the visiting Agile Learning facilitator, made a deep impression on all of us.

Gilmer had this quiet, grounded presence. He never raised his voice, never needed to. The children showed him an effortless kind of respect—born, I think, from deep mutual care. One morning, he generously invited us on an early bird walk through the jungle. In just over an hour, I jotted down more than 30 species—none of which I’d ever seen before. His ornithological knowledge was vast, even if most of it reached us via Google Translate.

Then there was Gainko: a whirlwind of fun, energy, and passion. I honestly don’t think I’ve ever seen a teacher quite like him. His enthusiasm was magnetic, and the kids were drawn to him immediately. Especially Roscoe, who usually takes time to warm up to new people. But Gainko had a gift—he saw something in Roscoe, and Roscoe bloomed a little more each day under his attention.

I should also make a special mention to the organisers of the hub, Patty supported by Matteo. Patty has created something truly magical in Ek Balam, an experience that would be hard to find elsewhere. Yes, it is back to basics and wouldn’t be for everyone… But for us it was one of the most immersive, organic and true experiences we’ve had since traveling and precisely ‘our kind of thing’. It made us really think about what is important, to be grateful and humble for everything we have and that we can be as resourceful as we need to be in any situation.

We were also joined on the hub by Cundo, Laura and their 5 children. They belonged to the Wixarika Tribe, the indigenous peoples of North Western Mexico. They came and gave so much to the hub and we were so lucky to have met them and learnt from them. All of us now carry beaded bracelets made by them, each one with a cultural significance beyond just aesthetics. Cundo also led us in making a Muwieri stick, the traditional shamanic prayer wand of the Wixarika people. We whittled the sticks, wrapped them and adorned them with feathers. Each of these stages had it’s importance carefully explained to us and the idea is basically that while making the stick you imbue it with thoughts or wishes for whatever you feel. Good fortune, health, happiness or simply gratitude for what you already have. We still carry ours with us everywhere – carefully wrapped in our backpacks. It was really interesting to see the coming together of two indigenous groups of Mexico, the Maya and the Wixarika. To see their similarities and differences, to share food, stories and laughter with them. I had some of the deepest and most valuable conversations I think I’ve ever had with Cundo.. Just two fathers, two men.. two humans sharing philosophies, wisdom and knowledge. He spoke no English, I spoke little Spanish… but through a mixture of Google translate, Gainkos careful translation and a simple understanding (beyond language) of what each of us was expressing we had conversations the value of which cannot be measured.


Another honourable mention has to go to Wera the dog. Wherever we go in the world we seem to be adopted by a local dog of some sort and Wera was truly special. She took to sleeping in our Cabana and walking us to school, doing a great job of shooing away the other various groups of dogs along the way. It turns out she was actually the Ek Balam Archaeological site dog and this gave us the impression of being welcomed and looked after by the place aswell as the people. She was awesome and it was hard to say goodbye to her.

Traditions, Temples, and War Paint

The hub organised several incredible excursions and events, each one deepening our appreciation for this region and its roots.

One afternoon, we met the vibrant and passionate troupe from Boox Balam—a group of modern-day Mayan warriors committed to preserving their cultural traditions. They performed ancient dances, ceremonies, and even a demonstration of Pitz or Pok-ta-Pok, the traditional Mayan hip-ball game. Before we knew it, we were being daubed in traditional Mayan war paint—equal parts exhilarating, slightly intimidating but at the same time it made us feel welcomed and accepted.

Their leader, Willy, was an unforgettable presence. Wise, animated, and deeply connected to his ancestry, he shared stories, meanings, and rituals with an open heart. He wasn’t just performing culture—he was living it. He led us in a Shamanic ceremony in a nearby cave on one of our final days. Even someone like me who is not exactly spiritual leaning found that experience a profound and moving one, one that I’ll never forget.


The ancient city of Ek Balam

One of our most memorable excursions was to the Ek Balam archaeological site itself. We’d already learned about the site from Willy, who had shared its deep significance: an important place of spiritual power in the wider Mayan civilisation where ancient Maya shamans came to reflect, recharge, and continue their learning.

The climb up the main temple was hot and steep, but the view? Breathtaking. An endless canopy of green stretched in every direction. You could almost hear the echo of voices from a once bustling city, stories carried on the wind. If ever there was a place that felt alive with memory, this was it.


Sacred Waters and Hidden Ceremonies

You can’t come to Mexico without visiting a cenote—and we were lucky enough to have one right next to the Ek Balam archaeological site. Cenote X’Canche was the perfect way to cool off after a morning in the sun. Deep, clear, and beautifully still, it’s easy to see why the Mayans held these geological phenomenons as so sacred.

Another memorable experience was a medicinal plant walk led by a local expert. It wasn’t just a list of uses—it was a web of stories. Every leaf, bark, or flower held meaning, passed down through generations. The walk ended in a small traditional ceremony, held among the remains of a forgotten Mayan site cloaked in jungle. Forgotten only in the sense that this site exists on no map, no signs, no tourists… Not even the locals knew much of it’s history but it’s importance to them was clear as an extension of the wider Ek Balam ancient city site. It felt like we were being let in on a closely guarded secret the rest of the world had mostly forgotten.


From Jungle to Sea: Telchac Puerto

After two intense, beautiful weeks, it was time to say goodbye to Ek Balam. But we weren’t quite ready to leave Mexico just yet. The lure of the ocean was strong—especially for Nikki, who is at least 30% mermaid and starts to unravel if she’s away from salt water for too long.

Our hub organisers tipped us off about a tiny fishing village an hour or so Northeast—Telchac Puerto—and it sounded like just the thing after weeks of jungle heat, bugs, and bucket flush toilets.

Our time in Ek Balam will stay with us forever, and there will always be a bit of me yearning for the simplicity and warmth of that village.

We wrapped up with a bonfire celebration, swapped hugs and sad goodbyes with friends already missed, then packed up and headed out of the jungle and into something entirely different.


Slow Days by the Sea

Telchac Puerto is a peaceful little place of about a thousand people—quiet, unassuming, and full of charm. It seemed like a favourite weekend spot for local families from nearby towns: no crowds, just a gentle rhythm of life revolving around the sea.

Because we were visiting in low season, we somehow scored an incredible villa—pool, private beach access, and just a five-minute stroll into town. The contrast from our cabana in the jungle— intermittently working showers and mosquito nets—was a stark one. But it made us feel truly grateful. It’s hard to imagine many places in the world where we could have afforded something like this.

Our days slowed to a blissful rhythm: swimming and kayaking in the warm, shallow waters of the Gulf of Mexico… Although one day whilst swimming we were caught in the middle of a feeding frenzy with numerous Pelicans and Gulls dive-bombing into the water just a few feet away! Sometimes we swapped the sea for lazing by the pool when the afternoon winds picked up or wandered into town for fruit, vegetables, and excellent street snacks. The local tuk-tuks were the go-to mode of transport—and always a joy, no matter your age.

We were so content, we ended up staying an extra week.


A Morning Among Mangroves: El Corchito Ecological Reserve

Just a short drive from Telchac Puerto, we discovered a little gem tucked just outside the city of Progreso: El Corchito Ecological Reserve. From the moment we hopped on the tiny boat that ferries you across the water to the entrance, it felt like we were being let in on a secret.

The reserve is a quiet, shaded haven of mangroves, natural cenotes, and wildlife. Raised wooden walkways wind through the lush greenery, leading to three or four small cenotes—each one varying in depth, temperature, and magical vibe. Some are perfect for swimming, others better for dangling your feet while you watch fish emerge to do an earnest job of cleaning the dead skin from your feet… People pay alot money for that in fancy spas, so I’m told.

The kids loved exploring the trails (and spotting every possible critter), and we loved the calm, shaded space—a lovely contrast to the exposed, sun-drenched beaches nearby. It’s not a big place, but it was definately worth a visit.

If you’re ever near Progreso and want a quiet, nature-filled morning with a dose of cool water and cheeky raccoons, this is your spot.

A Quick Hop to Mérida

The only time we strayed from our sleepy beach life was for a day trip to Mérida, the Yucatán’s cultural capital. The city’s energy was a sharp contrast to Telchac’s calm, but a welcome one—lush parks, colourful architecture, and a seemingly endless supply of playgrounds and street food. We particularly enjoyed the Marquesitas which are sort of a huge pancake/waffle ‘thing’ rolled into a massive tube and stuffed with cheese, Nutella and whatever else you feel like… sounds crazy, is crazy… tastes amazing.

Senara also entertained numerous locals by dancing in and around the central park fountain display, a scenario which I’m sure will be remembered by all who witnessed it!

While in Mérida, we also visited Animaya Zoo, and it turned out to be one of the biggest surprises of the day. It’s a beautifully laid-out, open-air zoo with wide spaces and a calm, leafy atmosphere—plus a whole crew of free-roaming scarlet macaws flapping around as if they owned the place (they kind of do). The kids were mesmerised. There were plenty of animals to see, but never that cramped zoo feel. Best of all? Completely free to enter. A total win for budget-friendly, animal-loving families.

It was just enough buzz to remind us how much variety Mexico packs into one region—and how much we still have left to explore.


Final Thoughts

Mexico gave us extremes—from the hum of the jungle to the hush of a fishing village, from bucket flush toilets to luxurious beachside villas, from ancient sites to Agile learning. It surprised us, softened us, and stretched our comfort zones in all the right ways.

We came here to acclimatise, to settle into the rhythm of worldschooling on a new continent. What we found was far more: community, colour, and connection woven into every moment. It’s hard to leave a country that we felt still had so much to explore but as we keep saying “always leave something for next time”. It was harder still to leave behind the people that quietly changed the way we see the world.

What’s Next

It finally came time to leave Mexico, and though we weren’t quite ready to say goodbye, we had our next country (mostly) planned out. We were heading south into Belize, ready for a shift in pace—and in style. This leg would be true backpacking: short stays, hostels, and the promise of endless wildlife and new landscapes.

Travelling through Central America isn’t always simple—or cheap. But after weighing up the options, we found the best balance of cost and convenience was to hire a driver. It might sound extravagant, but it turned out to be far cheaper than flying and far faster than taking the bus. So, after six hours of winding highways and border crossings, we rolled into Belize: dusty, excited, and ready for whatever came next.

The song I’m going to wrap up this blog with isn’t technically Mexican but to me it ecapsulates the feel of our time and it reminds me of the amazing Mayans of Ek Balam and my firm belief in humanities connectedness regardless of nationality, borders, colour, age or gender.. We are all human.

2 responses to “I Left My Heart in Ek Balam”

  1. phenomenalb451dae912 avatar
    phenomenalb451dae912

    Hello Pete and Hi to Nikki

    Did it take a good deal of time to write this particularly blog because it’s so full! You have had some amazing experiences in Mexico, and it was so interesting, and such heartwarming reading. Photos are wonderful,  really appreciate those, and you all look so relaxed and happy.  I was quite moved when reading your ‘final notes’ and the last sentence in your ‘what next’  Because sadly we all desperately need those things don’t we, in these challenges times. Connection, Community, Care.

    I went to Stoke with my Mum early June and on the way home we dropped in to Sarah’s, It was a surprise visit and we saw Uncle Frank as it was a Sunday. He was looking well and Sarah too. We caught up on Sarah’s plans and she talked a lot about her Mum, about the things she misses and the things she remembers fondly. I didn’t realise what a great memory Sarah has for places and events and even conversations!

    They said if was funny we had turned up because Sarah had made a chocolate Dessert for lunch and Uncle Frank had said it should have been a Cherry Pie. A reference to all the Cherry Pies Nanny used to bake and send your Mum and Dad home with, and your Dad not liking Cherry Pies. That was quite funny… 

    We talked about your travels and I mentioned your blog, had anyone read it, and your Dad got very animated about it, and said how well you write! You do Peter.. Add it to all the other crafts you’re good at.

    Getting late so will wish you onward happy and healthy travels in Belize.

    Look forward to another blog, but in your own time. 

    Jo. 

  2. A great read Pete! Entertaining and inspirational. Your love of Mexico and it’s people shine through and so many unforgettable experiences, beautifully described. You have (another) talent my friend. Thank you for sharing 🙏

    I feel like booking a flight now!

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